Solution Found

Hi Everyone 

I’m in the final stages of completing my latest sewing Make, the Gertrude Top. I introduced this Make a few blogs ago check it out here and talked about the decisions I needed to make re the sleeves and the main hem. I wanted to try a Blind Hem technique using both the overlocker as well as my standard sewing machine. Having tested the process with a specific Blind Hem foot (on my standard machine) I’ve decided NOT  to go with this solution. You can see the stitches (in pink - top photo story) which would not be a problem if I used white thread. However, the technique seems to produce a definite mock seam. I tested the same technique using my overlocker, with a similar result. The Blind Hem finish using the overlocker is very neat and perfectly acceptable, other than producing this mock seam. I particularly don’t want a seam at the cuff for this project- so the Blind Hem has been rejected.

                            

I don’t have a photo of the overlocker mock seam but it’s similar to having an actual separate attached cuff. For some projects, this would be great but for The Gertrude, it’s not quite right. The image above (bottom right) shares the results of using the Stretch Seam function on my basic sewing machine. Again, it’s a bit messy for me, stitches look like they are set at the wrong tension every ‘now and again’. This technique has also be rejected.

My favoured solution is to be a twin needle on a standard sewing machine with a Walking Foot attachment. I feel this gives a professional finish which looks attractive on both sides of the garment. 

                          

I’ve tested the approach and am quite pleased with the results. The Gertrude Top has 3/4 sleeves, all ready and waiting to be top stitched with the twin needle finish and the Hem is also prepped. I’ve gone with a slightly dipped Hem and a 2cm turning both at the sleeve and the bottom. All hems are tacked in place and ready to go. The Walking Foot is necessary, without the Walking Foot my fabric was distorted and does not produce a straight stitch finish. You would not believe my next hurdle ! No white thread !! Unbelievable. I have a whole box of coloured threads but NO white.The twin needle, obviously, needs two bobbins of thread to provide the stitch and I have only one white thread bobbin and a very small amount of thread on that one bobbin ! So, how frustrating. I’ll be acquiring white thread later today and all will be well.

Thanks for calling in today.